![]() Functionsīoth the TU2 and TU3 offer 2 different tuning modes, cent, or stream. When you’re done, stomp once again to reactivate the output. ![]() Simply stomp once to activate the tuner, this will mute output allowing you to tune in silence. It does require that you press and hold in order to adjust, which can cause issues if you have sweaty hands or larger fingers, it does work well enough, but a standalone brightness button would have been a better solution.Īctivating either of these tuners when they’re attached to your pedal board could not be easier. In order to keep the form factor the same, Boss opted to include the brightness control within the stream/cent button. Modes are selected through the mode button, and display type is changed with the stream/cent button. As far as ease of use goes, both work in an almost identical fashion. It seems like a very small difference, and to untrained ears, it may well be imperceptible, but when accuracy matters most, the TU3 will definitely help you to hit that perfect pitch.Īs with the overall form factor and design, Boss didn’t really change anything between the TU2 and the TU3. The old TU2 is still accurate, registering within +/-3 cents, but the TU3 takes it up a notch, and will provide tuning accuracy down to +/-1 cent. Recording artists and studio engineers, especially, will appreciate the extra level of accuracy that the TU3 provides. Both units have their center LED light up green when you are at pitch, but the TU3 ramps this up with red confirmation lights on either side of the green when it’s satisfied that tuning is correct and stable. The TU3 display on its standard setting is just a touch brighter than the original TU2, but the TU3 now has controls, allowing the user to adjust brightness as necessary, which is a welcome feature for anyone who plays outdoors in bright sunlight. This change makes it much easier to see when a note is approaching pitch. Boss increased the number of LED indicators on the tuning scale to 21 from the original TU2’s 11. One of the most noticeable updates on the TU3 was the display. ![]() While some pedal manufacturers automatically assume your pedal will be in a board, and thus leave the base with a bare plastic finish, both the Boss TU2 and TU3 have a rubber bottom pad, which will go a long way to prevent the pedal from slipping around on stage should you choose to keep it separate from a pedal board. Both have a single input as well as a single output and a bypass. Both models are metal stomp boxes finished in white with distinctive orange lettering, and a big, non-slip rubber stomp pad at the bottom. Boss clearly understood that the form factor was part of what made the original TU2 so popular, and chose not to change the overall form factor at all. Maybe you are getting something like that going on?The TU3 launched as a direct replacement in the Boss lineup for the TU2. I tried a Boss wall wart, Fulltone wart, Onespot, and even a PedalPower Iso5 brick, but as long as everything was being powered by the same source, there was noise.but give the delay or looper their own power, and presto.no problem. However, as soon as the clock effects have their own power supply, everything is fine. I know when my wah share a power supply with any Boss pedal with a 'clock' like a delay or a Loop Station, I hear clock noise. There are a few schools of thought on pedal order, but those 60s era circuits are usually the most sensitive.Īnother thing to consider is your power might be a long shot, but if your pedals all share a power supply that might cause some trouble. ![]() Guitar-wah-fuzz-then whatever order effects sound best to you-amp. Vintage fuzz and wah circuits like the Fuzz Face or Vox Clyde wah and their myriad clones like to see unbuffered signals for best results.
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